Turquoise Energy Ltd. News #23
Copyright 2009 Craig Carmichael - January 3rd 2010
Car Drive System Project Detailed
* December Trials.
* Sluggish motor starting & PWM frequency
* Better disconnect circuit breaker / switch (BSS4007 or BSS4048)
* Better EV Heater: 200-400-600-800-1000-1200 Watts with a revised 120
V fan heater.
(Long story short: use its heating elements with a 24VDC
computer fan, DP on-off-on switch, and make a new housing to fit.)
* Sodium Silicate "Water Glass" coil casting.
* Unsuccessful car
tests December 6th & 22nd show play and vibration in mechanism are
Ceramic Motor Coil Cores Project Detailed Report
* "Torque Multiplier" is evidently the name of a type of power tool, so
I'm going back to "Torque Converter".
* No activity - no
Turquoise Battery Project Detailed
* Not much activity - no report
The Lead-Acid Battery
Project Progress Report
* Not much activity - no report.
Construction Manuals for making your own:
* Electric Hubcap Motor
* Turquoise Motor Controller
are at http://www.TurquoiseEnergy.com/
The first few days were occupied with re-wiring the car
and installing the motor controller, as most of the plugs and the
configuration of the controls had been changed in the new version
controller with the MC33033 chip. The first on-car test of the motor
with the mechanical
torque multiplier on December 6th failed: like the wave power
machine there was too much play in the linkage. The problem seemed
easily fixed, but then a problem developed with the motor controller
and I had to divert
attention to fixing it. (cause: loose screws to the heat sink let
transistors overheat and one burned out.)
Then life put the work on hold. It got too cold to work or
test outside (no heated garage) - even inside I spent much time
sitting near the woodstove. I spent time filling out SR
& ED tax credit claim papers to get back a portion of the $13,000 I
spent or otherwise invested in R & D for 2008 - not exactly a
salary, but the only government assistance
I am able
to access. (My 2007 claim was rejected without CRA telling me. Waiting
news that never came led to months of delay before doing 2008. I'm
doing the 2008 claim - I still didn't get it finished and it's now
"urgent" - differently.) When
the weather warmed up, it started pouring rain.
As I had "uninstalled" the motor controller,
I sought out and found a better 150 amps main breaker/power switch that
allowed everything to fit properly in the controller/wiring box.
(Physically smaller than the $5 surplus house main breaker, and only
the price.) In addition, I sourced out the "best" brake rotor disks for
making the motors and more ideas for
electric heating and window defogging.
Finally back at the car, the torque pulses
were still being taken up in slack - the rotor was was theoretically
coupled to the wheel, but despite attempts to beef things up, it was
vibrating back and forth with the torque pulses without the wheel
turning, and I decided the torque rotor would have
to be solidly bolted onto the wheel out near its rim.
this arrangement, I saw that it could actually make for valuable
configuration improvements. Once the revisions had been made, testing
revealed that the play had simply been converted to vibration, making
the motor jump around. I thought the fit was better than that! Where to
go from here? Well,
invention is discovery!
it was Christmas.
It occurred to me that our Prime Minister is the only
Canadian who can decide to create, eliminate or restructure a
government department. On January first, my birthday and "the start of
decade in the progressive evolution of human affairs", I wrote him a
letter with the idea for a government Department of Progress
overseen by a government minister,
with my previous letter to the Finance Minister and additional
Biodiesel Fuel & "Politics"
On the 10th I watched "Fuel" at the Imax, a film focusing
mainly on using biodiesel (AKA cooking or vegetable oil): burning
oil from plants in
place of dirty oil from fossil fuel. And it seems there's a way to make
fast-growing algae "farmed" in tanks
in desert areas, a system worked out in the 1970's under president
Energy Policy. Rudolf Diesel in fact invented his engine to run on
vegetable oil, as an alternative to gasoline engines.
At least one of the film's sponsors makes bio-diesel near
Duncan, and drove to the film using it. There are at least two filling
stations, in and near Duncan. More info?:
www.CowichanEnergyAlternatives.org or www.DrBjornsAuto.com (does
With no evident recognition in the film of
the role of the petroleum industry in methodically killing
transport, I was struck by the mention of what sounded like a typical
petroleum propaganda blitz, this one against bio-diesel, fed to the
"news" and nicely calculated as
usual to undermine public support for the alternative by blowing its
negative points way out of proportion and not mentioning the benefits.
(eg, saying food crops are diverted to fuel production while people
starve in the third world - whether there's any connection or not - and
mentioning the algae farms that could prevent such diversion.)
In keeping with the technique, this should be followed by clandestine
attempts to sabotage or buy out and shut down any major sources of
bio-diesel fuel. As part of the sabotage, I recently heard elsewhere
automakers are now deliberately
making modified fuel injectors that won't work with plain bio-diesel
tuned for the next
stage: "news" about unhealthy additives and processing needed to make
bio-diesel work, without of course any mention that this is because of
Instead, the film speaks of "personal responsibility" for
getting off petroleum. Again we see the need for a government Department
the public interest, here to help get the algae farms up and running or
otherwise ensure a good supply is available at the pumps,
and to ensure that a whole technology isn't supressed by vested
Even with good plug-in hybrids,
biodiesel could perhaps be a great fuel for longer distance driving,
Just before the end of the month, I saw an oil company TV
ad about growing algae to make biodiesel oil. I doubt if they're
serious about actually doing it. I'd guess they're very scared of
electric and plug-in
hybrid cars. They seem currently to be doing their best to divert the
attention from them, eg, with massive general TV ad campaigns for
cars, and bringing in biodiesel at this point
seems like a good tactic to cloud the whole issue. And at the "worst",
they want to be in control of it.
Although this car ad blitz is coming from many "competing"
car companies, "big oil" doubtless controls the lot of them. There
seems to be a complex web of auto company share ownerships, and control
is likely by proxies that probably can't be directly traced to the oil
companies themselves. This was brought home in the documentary "Who
Killed the Electric Car?", when car companies were forced by California
to produce a certain percentage of non-polluting cars. 1. Every car
company would only lease
cars and not sell them. 2. As soon as California law allowed, every car
company had every electric car taken back and crushed, over howls of
protest. The central
control is evident. Who in their right mind would believe these
happened to be multiple identical, simultaneous decisions, all taken
independently by each and every car maker?
(Scared of electric cars? I'll repeat myself: Chevron, via
"Cobasys", has car size Ni-MH batteries locked in a box for decades to
by buying up 125 related patents, and they'll probably acquire every
new one that comes out. They probably dictate the price
of the smaller ones, too, as they never seem to drop much below 1000
$/KWH regardless of battery size or manufacturer.)
Look for all the promising plug-in hybrid developments
like the Chevy
Volt and the Mitsubishi electric car to quietly peter out and amount
nothing, or to be unaffordable, owing to their manipulations.
(May I please be proven wrong!) Mitsubishi probably took the oil
companies by surprise since they've
never made cars before, but one can guess that oil company proxies are
now out there quietly buying up Mitsubishi shares and working to
divert the project.
At the top of this vast network of power and control are
probably a very few gangsters. I saw part of the film "Nixon" on TV
recently and found it illuminating. It was implied that mafia
bosses with oil interests had John and then Bobby Kennedy done in to
pave the way for getting their favourite, Nixon, into the white house.
institutions and laws are evidently inadequate to prevent the private
accumulation of the sort of power and wealth that can have such things
- all of the things above - done, seemingly with impunity.
I keep thinking of NRC and their insistence that
any recipient of their funding is required to patent their created
technology. First, to me it seems to defy logic that public
money should be rigidly required as a matter of fixed policy to create
unavailable to the public.
Second, since patents for non-petroleum transportation
technology all seem
to end up under the control of an oil
company, priceless new technologies are
until those involved are gone and everyone has forgotten they
exist - they are killed dead. And other manipulations are also used to
the same end, usually with a car company or other proxy taking the
blame so the oil companies maintain a "clean" image. (Eg, GM and
Constantinesco's mechanical torque converter in
1923.) If the electric light bulb were invented today,
they'd buy up the fledgling light bulb maker and close it down before
or any were sold, to keep us using
kerosene in lanterns.
Hence, my quest for an add-on system that's easy to make
without specialized equipment, and also my freely publishing my work
than patenting it, even though this (not to mention the
terms for accessing government R & D money that effectively
make it completely inaccessible regardless, even to Canada's top
from making any sort of a living for developing some things Canada and
very much want and need, and which few people would be able to create.
The Electric HubcapTM Vehicle Drive System
December In Detail
I spent the first few days of December rewiring things in
First, the gas pedal rheostat now needed all three wires
connected instead of just two, so I pulled it out and re-did it. Before
I took it off, I tested it with a meter, pressing the gas pedal, and
found that it was still working properly after about a year.
Then the motor controller has a "motor disable not" pin
with a pull-up resistor instead of what seems more logical, a "motor
enable not" pin. This inverse sense has repercussions: First, if the
controls aren't connected, the motor defaults to "run" instead of
"idle". Second, a switch has to be turned "ON" instead of "OFF" to put
the motor into "neutral". My preference of a "Forward-Off-Reverse"
switch had to be replaced by "Off-Reverse-Forward" to work with any
ordinary sort of on-off-on switch. (I suppose I could have used two
switches, but then I'd have to find room for and install the second
So I rewired the switch.)
With both controls rewired, the connector on other end of
the operator controls cable also had
to be rewired, for the new socket type on the new (relatively speaking)
Finally, the motor itself now had the 75 amp rated APP
connector while the car still had the homemade socket from before I
APP system, so the car's motor connector had to be replaced.
After that, the system was to be fitted on the wheel
"sprung" instead of bolted to the axle, and a "thrust plate" and some
changes to the mounting brackets had to be made.
It's December, so the days are cold and daylight short.
item or two could be managed in a day. By the 6th everything was ready
for testing. The motor ran fine, and the torque converter had a first
test, which is described in that section.
In a second test on the 8th, the motor didn't run right.
Then it got really cold, putting a stop to the work. (oh, for a heated
By the 15th it was getting warmer and I had the motor
dismounted and inside. I found a single blown mosfet. When I went to
replace it, I found out why: the screws holding the mosfets onto the
heatsink were all loose. I had removed them last time I redesigned the
controller and (evidently) not retightened them. It worked fine
until the motor had a load, then they started overheating. Doubtless it
was the MC33033's dynamic current limiting system that prevented the
shorted transistor from "taking out" some or all of the others.
Also of interest, most of the skinny leads of the DC
supply filter capacitors next to the transistors were blown, even
though the capacitors
themselves seemed okay. This probably happens when the motor direction
switch is reversed with the motor spinning, which turns on the high
side mosfets of all three phases, shorting the motor coils regardless
of the PWM setting, to bring it to an "instant" stop. That would make
for some pretty nasty spikes! 100uF/200V
capacitors have fatter leads than the installed 100uF/100V ones, so
they may prove necessary even at just 36 volts. (Last year, some 50V or
64V cap.s actually blew up! In addition to the increased voltage
rating, I doubled the number from 3 to 6, one for each pair of mosfets.)
Motor Controller Improvement
When I went to pull the motor controller from the car for
repair I ran again into the curse of the motor coil filter capacitors
being mounted covering the wiring connections. This was caused by the
main" circuit breaker taking up too much room in the cabinet, forcing
me to move other components around to fit everything in. This was my
main remaining beef with the motor controller chassis layout, and I had
"some time" to locate a smaller breaker for the finished design.
I decided this was the time! I looked for one rated for DC
volts as well as AC. From what I saw, most breakers showing both AC and
DC ratings, if rated for 240 VAC, were also rated for at least 40 volts
DC, although a few were just "32 VDC". But all the "regular" breakers
about 60 amps are double - similar to the one I wanted to remove.
I searched hell and high water for a small single 150 amp
breaker, and of the few choices available, it seemed to boil down to
two panel mount breakers from Blue Sea Systems (from the "high water"):
Their BSS7004 and BSS7048 models looked the most suitable. The
7004 has a push-button "off" and a lever to turn it on again. It was
around $45. The 7048 has a swinging arm for on and off. It was around
I am slightly concerned that the pushbutton "off" would be
easy to trip while driving if hit by luggage or by someone's elbow. The
lever arm wouldn't be
entirely safe either. A guard around the breaker might be in order in
A 135 amp breaker should be plenty big enough and better
protection (BSS7015 & BSS7047). 120 amps would probably work fine
too (BSS7013 & BSS7046.) I just wanted to have plenty of "headroom"
to make sure it would never, ever trip when I "floored" the motor on
the street, without taking the trouble (and expense) to try out
different size breakers. (So far a 100 amp breaker has never tripped.)
150 amps is the largest size of these types. If it proves
too small for a 24 volt
Hubcap system, one might have to start the search over again, or accept
a double breaker. If a physically large breaker is required, I think
expand the cabinet to accommodate it, eg, make it 13" tall instead of
10". (That wouldn't have fit in my chosen space in the car, but every
will be different.)
It seemed worth while. The BSS7004 breaker hardly takes up
any room inside. I put all the components back where they were
originally mounted and wow!, now the box has adequate room for
Sigh, I guess this means updating the motor controller making manual!
Additionally, sometimes it seemed the motor didn't want to start
spinning, though it had lots of power once going. I thought this might
be because of the low PWM frequency I chose, so I changed capacitor C7
from 0.1uF to 0.022uF to increase it from a medium tone to a high
pitched squeal. It was worse! I had to start it spinning by hand. So I
increased it instead, to 0.2uF. Then
the motor had plenty of starting thrust. This seems completely
counter-intuitive, but low PWM frequency has less switching losses and
thus less heat in the controller, so it seems to me preferable. It's
headed down towards the frequencies I was using when I didn't know
about the ready-made motor controller chips. An audible frequency also
avoids the system being an unrecognized ultrasonic irritant.
I measured no load current in one phase wire with a 36 volt
seemed similar to those in the tests a few months ago. Differences
to the equipment are first the hall effect magnet position sensors in
place of the
optical system, second that the heavy torque converter was mounted,
although spinning freely, and third the change to a lower PWM
frequency. Before the PWM change, currents measured about 20-30% higher
than shown below. The reason isn't clear. It's possible the ampmeter
doesn't respond very well to higher frequencies (the PWM) and that none
the readings are very accurate.
|CCW - Amps
|CW - Amps
But at the end of the month I seem to have discovered a
catch: at the new lower frequency, the motor will only get up to about
1100 RPM (no load), whereas before I'm sure it went beyond 1500 at less
than full "throttle" and I didn't try to find the max (with the open
motor spinning on the bench right in front of me). It seems further
adjustments will be necessary.
Better Electric Heater System
Last month I wrote of someone's idea to use 12 volts
heaters in series, eg, three heaters for the 36 volt system. There are
some weaknesses to this plan. First, I started worrying about the
safety of the type I'd purchased. (though, I found a better looking
for the same price at a marine store.) Second, the amount of heat is
fixed. Three 150 watt heaters is 450 watts, period. That's not much for
melting ice off the windshield on a cold morning, but it's too
much for a longer drive on a merely cool day.
Then in a store I saw a 750/1500 watt household heater for
just $20. I looked and saw it had two wound coils each forming a circle
around the periphery of the fan blades. I bought one and found that the
coils don't even glow red hot. (at least not if the fan is working.)
bought another one at another store for just $8! (A 1500 watt heater
can use $8 of electricity in just 3 days!) One is "HomeMax", the other
is "Sunbeam". (Obviously unrelated manufacturers - the colours are
The plan that occurred to me was to split both coils into
three equal sections. Since each coil is 750 watts at 120 volts, each
section would be 250 watts at 40 volts, or 200 watts at 36 volts.
(well... 202.5 watts)
Then I worked out a circuit to switch them. The existing
has "off", "fan", "low" and "high", 4 positions. The current of each
heater segment is slightly less than the original current of each
the "low" and "high" positions could each turn on one segment, 200 or
A new double pole toggle switch, on-off-on, rated 25 amps
(each pole) will be added. In the middle, the heater is off. Up, the
on the fan and one 200 watt heater element: "Low". Then the original
can add one or two more: 200 - 400 - 600 watts. Down, the switch
does the same as "up", but also turns on all three segments of the
other element, adding 600 watts: "High", 800 - 1000 - 1200 watts. Thus
this one added switch plus the existing one provides great incremental
control over the amount of heat to defog the windshield and warm the
car quickly and then
provide just enough to keep it comfortable.
Of course, heating the car off the batteries will reduce
the vehicle range. At 200 watts, the heater will draw about 6 amps, and
at 1200, 34 amps. (I should also install thermal cutout switches in all
three segment areas, or at
least get one rated for 34 amps.)
To get lesser heats or finer gradations, one could use one
of the coils in halves instead of thirds (makes two 135 watt elements),
use 2/3 and 1/3 (100 and 200 watts), or simply put 36 volts across a
whole coil (68 watts). However, such arrangements would reduce the
considerably complicate the switching. The 200 watt increments with two
switches seems more practical, allows maximum heat, and not least isn't
too confusing to operate.
A good operating plan to reduce the amount of
from the heater, is to preheat the car before starting out, with a
heater running on house power. (But be sure it's safely set up!) This
would take additional setup and planning, and you either need to know
when you're soon to leave or else leave it on all the time in cold
presumably the car is plugged in anyway to recharge the batteries.
I tried this once with a 400 watt heater - it was great to come out to
a warm car with the
frost melted off the windshield!
The other part of the plan is a little more difficult. The
120 VAC fan, made to fit the heater, won't run on DC, nor on 36 volts.
computer type fan won't fit properly.
It seemed to me a DC to AC inverter should run the fan
motor okay since it was quite low power. All the common ones convert 12
VDC to 120
VAC, but we have 36 VDC going into the heater.
One option is to buy a 12 VDC to 120 VAC inverter and
either feed in separate 12V power for the fan or put in a voltage
regulator to drop the 36 volts to 12 volts. Feeding separate power
would really complicate the switching, and a situation where the heater
was on but the fan wasn't running would be dangerous. Using a regulator
and inverter means paying several tens of dollars for the inverter and
yet still having to build an electronic circuit.
So why not make a 36 VDC to 120 VAC inverter instead? I
found a promising circuit diagram on the web, but unfortunately,
Hammond doesn't seem to make an appropriate (small 72 volt center
120 volt) transformer, and there's really nowhere else to buy
I wondered if a transformer made just by winding coils
around a core similar to my motor coil cores would work. Most
transformers have the iron laminates wrapping around, an "EI" shape
coils wound on the middle bar of the "E", to complete the magnetic
circuit. (or a toroid.) I decided to simply make one and see what
happened. I used 180
turns of #22 wire for the 120 volt side and 108 turns of #19 for the 72
Unfortunately, when I plugged it in it buzzed loudly, the
meter read 11
amps and the overhead light on the same circuit dimmed perceptibly.
Nope! It needs that magnetic circuit completed. (It was probably also
not enough turns of wire, notwithstanding the large core size.) I guess
all I made was
There was however a second experiment within this
experiment. The wires have to be immobilized, and common practice is to
dip the transformer (or motor, electromagnet...) in motor varnish and
bake it in an oven at about 450 f to harden it. This makes noxious
fumes so you can't do it indoors. (I used a toaster oven out on the
patio for the motor coils.)
In this construction I put it in a tin and filled it with sodium
silicate solution - "water glass" from the pottery supply store. I then
put it in the kitchen oven at 250 f. It didn't work quite like mixing
it with clays. It seemed the water had to escape, boil off, for the
sodium silicate to harden. It bubbled up and overflowed, and a hard
crust formed on top. I ended up pushing it all back down with a spoon
several times, and it took a couple of hours, where the motor varnish
is under an hour and no need to inspect it in the oven.
Coil Winder Bobbin for 1/2" thick coils
Peeling off the small salmon tin that the coil was "cooked" in. I
snipped the top edge and wound off the tin with pliers. The pin in the
center makes a mounting bolt hole.
The "finished product", two coils with tarpaper between, my usual
nail gun finishing nail strip "laminates", all cast in hardened "water
The end result was a coil in sodium silicate
"glass" instead of motor varnish or cast epoxy. It seemed great! But
normally with water glass one fires the ceramic and vitrifies
everything. Here, the
unfired water glass will reabsorb water and dissolve. It could work
well in a warm, dry location... but not on a motor mounted on a car
It can also work for experiments such as this one. I put
the coil in a container of water, and in an hour this solid object was
back into its individual elements - coiled wires, nail strips and a
piece of tarpaper.
My biochemist brother has suggested that if I added
calcium it would become insoluble and the setting would be permanent.
(How about calcium carbonate or barium carbonate?) Oh well, some other
So I considered what other options there were for driving
the fan. I looked at the motor itself. It appeared that the laminates
could be tapped apart to expose the coils, which could then be rewound
with 36/120ths of the length of wire, of 3.33 times the cross section
area to make the motor 36 volts instead of 120. Or, the same wire could
be cut into three equal lengths and wound in parallel. That way, no
transformer would be needed.
The theory was good. The motor core tapped apart with a
hammer and screwdriver and the plastic coil formers pulled off easily.
The fine wires weren't varnished (!), so they could easily be unwound.
unwinding and counting turns. I was expecting 200-300 turns on this
very small spool, but as I
unwound my estimates keep going up. In the end, I counted 1340 turns
and the fine wire caught in every little thing and became a tangled
The diameter of the wire measured 0.006". Subtracting 0.002 for the
insulation that made it... way finer than my wire gauge tables went!
That meant that I'd have to rewind each of the two coils
of the motor with 402 turns of about #32(?) wire by hand. Even if a
local motor shop has such fine wire, I could just see more tangled
wire, losing count and frustration, and decided that it wasn't really
Then it occurred to me that the two coils of the motor
were in series. If I simply cut the wire between them and put them in
parallel, it would become a 60 volt motor instead of 120 volts. That's
closer to 36 volts. Could it be close enough? Motors are fairly
I tried running the fan on 64 volts from a transformer,
equivalent to 32 if the coils were in parallel. The motor barely
started (one time I had to shake the heater) and it didn't blow much
I tried again with 78 volts (39 volts), and here the fan started
slowly but surely and blew a perceptible amount of air. Those were the
closest available voltages. All in all, pretty marginal performance,
especially if the batteries were a bit low.
Hammond has a selection of 36 volt center tapped
transformers that could be used to step up to 60 volts. So, providing I
could cut the wire between the two coils into two and successfully
solder leads to them, and providing the inverter circuit worked (it
likely will), it becomes doable. But not simple!
But finally I began to think that the better solution
is to simply take the heating element assembly, a computer fan, and
create a new housing to fit them. The 36 volts can easily be dropped
down to 24 for a 24 volt fan, with a simple 5 watt resistor. It's the
only solution that doesn't seem to require designing and building a
solid state electronic circuit. Instead, it's simple plastic (and
aluminum?) work - cutting, bending, gluing and screwing.
Furthermore, the original housing is rather bulky. It has
"waste" space all around, and it will be easy to reduce it to much
dimensions for car use, and put it on a swivel mounting at the dash.
Yes, I'm warming to this idea!
Mechanical or Magnetic Torque
Torque Leverage Without Gears
In December, the unit was ready to test on a car, but I
first had to change some wiring and plugs on the car, so it wasn't
until the 6th I ran any tests.
These failed: like the wave power
machine there was too much play in the linkage. The mounting layout
layout is in accordance with the "sprung motor" suspension design of
last month, which looked really easy to implement when I considered
actually doing it.
I thought I'd have to make a new plate to fit between the
nuts on the wheel. But then I realized the nuts were a little smaller
regular ones on the outside (need a smaller wrench) - leftover from the
previous mounting scheme. I replaced these with the regular nuts and
the change was just about right to eliminate the play.
On the 8th I tried again, but this time the motor, which
had had no previous
problems, didn't run right, so no tests were
possible. Then the weather got really cold for some days (eg, -5c) and
I had to quit working on
By the 16th I'd brought everything into the house,
repaired the motor controller (December Trials, above) and
tested motor operation. By that day also it was much warmer (+7c) --
but pouring rain.
December 21st: A couple more trials convinced me that the torque
rotor driving via a plate between the lug nuts isn't going to work.
Even when it seems tight, the torque rotor vibrates back and forth
without the car wheel following. It seems the rotor will have to be
bolted solidly to the car wheel, and that the bolts should be nearer
the rotor's rim than its center.
However, there seemed to be some good news in this. Since
rotor, spinning inside the output rotor, is driven by pins from the
motor magnet rotor, and since it slides up and down on those pins, a
natural point to pivot the motor from to effect sprung suspension is
created, using tapered pins.
Also, the magnet rotor can be affixed to the base end of
the motor axle with the drive pins/bolts sticking out. Then the stator
is attached to the axle hub. With only one hub and one pair of
bearings, no machine lathe is required to cut down hubs so that two
will fit on one axle, simplifying manufacture.
And, perhaps a small point, the motor and torque converter become
separate, and can be carried separately, keeping the loads lighter for
those of us with weak backs. But the motor will stay in one piece; it
doesn't have to be disassembled to mount and dismount it - there's no
danger from exposed supermagnets.
However, when this arrangement was tested, it appeared
that with no actual connecting shaft, the play had simply been
converted to having the motor bounce around. Furthermore, to be able to
do up the lug nuts on the wheel, I had had to cut the center out of the
rotor, so it can no longer be attached the way it was previously.
Next I'll simply get everything to fit as perfectly as
possible and try it again. After that... the design basically seems
good, but some improved components and fittings will be in order. A
heavier inertia mass plate might help considerably to strengthen the
pulses of force.