Last Update: Nov. 8 2007.
Mid February 2007:
Yay, some nice plumwood
is now cut! See the amazing pics below!
and, I've shown all the remaining dogwood sets.
and, there's now tops, too.
End of June 2007:
My gosh... ANOTHER huge dogwood tree! I've already got
30+ new dogwood guitar sets on the go... unless somebody asks for a stack
of them before I cut, this one will be cut into lumber and turning pieces.
Late May 2007:
I've finally received the "more and better" dogwood
log sections I've been waiting for. I'm now cutting the largest one - the
base of the tree. It is more straight and clear, and has considerable "flame"
in the figure. It promises to yield upwards of 20 excellent sets of edge
grain guitar backs and sides! I've cut a few 1"x3"s for guitar necks as
well. (...and lots of turning squares and other lumber.)
Feb 2007: I've cut up some Western yew into boards, but the grain runs every direction (one had 3 or 4 hearts!) and there are sap pockets, and I'm dubious there are pieces usable for anything bigger than maybe a mandolin. I've just cut some from a new log, but owing to flaws, the above still applies. I'll try to get the pictures up soon. (May: wasn't soon - well, maybe when I post the new dogwood pics!)
Feb18th 2007: I've just obtained some pieces of Sitka spruce, western red cedar and yellow cedar (AKA Golden Cypress) that was split into wedges for making guitar tops. These have been seasoning in an open garage for several years, so all I have to do is slice them up! (Cut tops samples below.)
Things do occasionally change here on this web page, so far mostly for the better... Please do check back!
craig@ ----- Or... please
drop me an email if you'd like me to send you one when the
page is updated.
saers.com
Dogwood, Plumwood Guitar Backs
For a truly unique Guitar!
All prices are in Canadian Dollars.
Please see the description of these great woods on the
index page!
Dogwood
An island guitar maker who's made
a guitar with dogwood says (condensed):
"Good
sound, machines nicely, bends nicely. It's pretty, hard, and underrated,
and it's local! I'm a fan!"
Next Two Images Below...
Set 15 (L) is good for a parlor guitar - $85
Set 16 (R) should make a dreadnaught - $105
Next Three Images Below...
Set 19 (L) Dreadnaught Size. Spalted section (upper-outer
areas). Or could use for small body and virtually avoid the spalted areas
- ask for sides to match. - $100
Set 20 (R) is huge but spalted and with some end checks
- dreadnaught, jumbo - $100. I seem to have turned them the wrong way around
for the template photo - the end checks have to be out unless it's a short
body or you want to do some glueing.
Next Image Below... Typical sides for the above
backs. The two pairs on the right are spalted, matching some spalted backs.
(Only the leftmost pair has been sanded.)
As to the remaining older sets shown below, Wood is wood and few of these are 'perfect'. On the backs, there are usually tiny knots that don't look like problems to me. Saw and planer marks will sand out unless otherwise noted. (On the backs, often a vertical line is visible about the middle of the board, which results from a slight misalignment between 4-1/2 inch deep cuts from each side - my saw blade is too small to cut 9 inches deep. This is not a check and will sand out.)
On many sets, various defects will make selection of particular
orientations necessary, often including (a) which end is the large bout,
(b) which edges go together, and (c) which surface faces outwards. I show
what I judge is the best face and layout, with the large bout downwards.
Thickness of the back and side pieces is about 5mm (5/32"
to 6/32") unless otherwise noted.
![[image]](DogGB-05-1a.jpg)
Set #5, 40 $Cdn with sides
Owing to thin spots (lower left, outside half of board)
and knots (top center), I'd say this is best for a tenor guitar, ukelele,
mandolin, etc.
One might just squeeze a parlor size out of it, but I
make no guarantees.

Set DWGB-08, 45 $Cdn.
Probably a parlor size here... or maybe more comfortable
as something smaller. OM would get into some larger knots. Interesting
"angel wings" pattern near the top.
PLUMWOOD
(Purple Leaf Plum - Feb 16th, 2007)
Well, I've finally cut up a nice Purple Leaf Plum log, and used the new bandsaw to make some guitar body parts. The wood is quite uniform in texture. The grain of the tree was twisted (typical for purple leaf plum - it grows in a "corkscrew" fashion) and there's some runout one way on one edge and the other way on the other. Getting pieces that were all heartwood wasn't possible.
I think you'll agree they are very colorful! I've never heard of a plumwood guitar, and I hope I'll hear back reports from the first purchasers!
Nov 8 2007: one set left...
PLP-04 - $80
Beautiful but not flawless: These are the two remaining paired pieces
of plumwood, each piece about 9" x 35". There are so many options that
my idea is to ship the four pieces whole and let the luthier decide which
set is backs, which is sides, and where to cut them. A dreadnaught or jumbo
would force the sides to be cut very specifically to avoid knots, whereas
better possibilities are open for a parlor guitar. (or: perhaps someone
could obtain two mandolins or ukeleles?)
Left Pieces: The large knots are at about 31" from the bottom and the
check by the left one leaves about 4-1/2" width. The two little black knots
are at about 29" and leave a little less than 4-1/2" on either side. The
tiny vertically central black knot is barely visible on the other side,
but there's a bit of spalting visible on that side.
Right pieces: Between the tiny knots and the 'slits' towards the top
is ~4-7/8" so it could make sides just under 31" long before the end knots
and checks at the other end. There's some spalting in the area shown as
upper bouts.
Right hand pieces uncovered
The left hand pieces with a different orientation (pic taken when they
were still green)
GUITAR TOPS
(Feb 18th, 2007)
I've been given some wedges split from western red cedar, sitka spruce, and yellow cedar (actually a cypress, AKA golden cypress) for making guitar tops from. (Yellow cedar has evidently been used for both tops and backs/sides! I also have Leland cypress, which is similar to yellow cedar except it's whitish, but probably no pieces big enough for edge grain tops.)
Sets made from any of these wedges will all be pretty square-on edge grain, around 10 to maybe 30 grains per inch. They have been air dried unheated for several years. So far, I've just sliced a few sample sets to show here. If you would like a set in spruce or either cedar, please let me know - usually, I'll be able to cut them within a day or two. 27 $Cdn per set for wides (16+"), $18 for widths under 7.75 (15.5) inches. I'm not sure enough of the exact parameters to designate the various grades some sellers use, so I'm not going to try. They look very nice to me! 'fraid you just get the pictures unless you are in Victoria to see them in person.
I'll soon have a thickness sander at my disposal and will
be cleaning all these up. Meanwhile, I've cut them and I'm updating the
web page now, so here are pictures of tops that need some serious sanding,
for what they're worth!
Sitka Spruce Top Bookmatched Set, just wide enough for
a jumbo, 27 $Cdn
One Face
In this set there's a feathery check in the left board
at the centerline (right edge of the board). It shows somewhat diagonally
towards the top. I'm not a guitar maker, but it doesn't go far or deep
and personally I'd just glue it and put that face inwards - if it won't
sand right off. So, the other face is shown below. There's a 'bear claw'
or two.
The Other Face
With Template
(the little yellow circles are in the plastic)
Red Cedar Guitar Tops - Sample. Very tight grain, maybe
around 30 per inch.
Yellow Cedar Gutar Tops - Sample. Very tight grain -
maybe 20-30 per inch.
I've been told yellow cedar tops (AKA golden cypress)
is what gives those old Spanish guitars their strong sound.